This month the now-combined wine writers are posting about the forgotten grapes of France. Lynn of Savor the Harvest is hosting. You can read her invitation.
The Line-Up
A Pair of Picpoul - From Two Continents - with a Simple Salmon Dinner by Culinary Cam (you're here).
A Sauvignon Gris from Bordeaux paired with a Chicken Stew from Zambia by A Day in the Life on the Farm
Beat the Wintry Blues: Meet Sciaccarellu, Niellucciu, Carcaghjolu Neru, and Minustellu from Corsica by Wine Predator
Channeling Warm Weather Through Forgotten Grapes of France by Side Hustle Wino
Forgotten Grapes of France by Savor the Harvest
Forgotten Grapes of France: Fer Servadou from Aveyron by Food Wine Click!
Forgotten Grapes of France: Poulsard Shines in the 2022 Domaine Dugois 'La Sombarde by Enofylz Wine Blog
French Alpine Wines and Pairings to Go With Them by Cooking Chat
Jurancon Noir: A very berry grape from southwest France by My Full Wine Glass
Pineau d’Aunis and Ovalie Cendrée: An Exquisite Pair by Keep the Peas
Rediscovering the Gems: Exploring the Forgotten Grapes of French Wine by Our Good Life
Rosé d’Anjou with Groulleau and a budget-friendly variation on Crab Mac & Cheese by Crushed Grape Chronicles
A Pair of Picpoul
Picpoul is a white grape varietal that's been cultivated in the Languedoc region of France for centuries. It is rarely grown outside of France, however I was able to locate a vintner not too far from me, here on California's central coast. So I decided to open, compare, and contrast a French Picpoul and one from California.
I read an article or two about Picpoul meaning 'lip stinger', but then I read a convincing rebuttal to that claim and my French is very, very rusty. I didn't have time to really research which side was correct. So, I'll shelve that assertion for now. Maybe one of the other French Winophiles can shed some light onto that.
What I will say is that Picpoul is a zingy white that is refreshing and affordable. And I love that French Picpoul de Pinet wines are virtually all sold in a special, distinctive bottle, called a "Neptune" bottle. It's green, slender and embossed with a Languedoc cross on it which was first used as the coat of arms of the counts of Forcalquier in Provence, and then by the counts of Toulouse in the traditional territory of Languedoc.
Gérard Bertrand - An 1618 Picpoul de Pinet 2023 + Bonny Doon Vineyard Central Coast 2023
Both are from biodynamic vineyards and single varietal 100% Picpoul.
The French Picpoul
Gérard Bertrand is a winegrower and winemaker dedicated to biodynamics and committed to biodiversity. Bertrand manages his vineyards according to the biodynamic system that has at the heart of it a system of growing that enhances the expression of the terroir with minimal intervention from the grower and winemaker. In fact, at the heart of the biodynamic system is the energy of the soil. All the work in the vineyard - from ploughing and pruning - and in the cellar is done in strict adherence to a calendar that revolves around the sun and the moon.
The vineyard from which these grapes were sourced is located on the banks of the Etang de Thau, between the garrigue and the sea. The wine poured a clear straw color with brilliant gold reflections. On the nose its aromas were intense and complex with layers of citrus, honey, and white flowers. On the palate this wine is medium-bodied with a crisp acidity. I noted flavors of apples, pears. garrigue, and bergamot.
The California Picpoul
From the Sweetwater Vineyard in Monterey County, this vintage is the first year of production for the Picpoul. Made by long-time Bonny Doon winemaker Nicole Walsh, I'll be shining the spotlight on Walsh during the #WinePW March event.
The grapes were hand-harvested and whole cluster pressed to stainless steel tanks. The wine poured a pale yellow with a clear white rim. On the nose there are aromas of white flowers with a hint of tropical fruit - the sweetness of lychee and the tartness of pineapple. On the palate the wine has a pronounced umami with mouth-puckering acidity.
Tasting them side-by-side, without food, we preferred the French Picpoul. With the main dish, the French Picpoul was also the favorite, but the California Picpoul won the pairing with the creamy goat cheese dip.
A Simple Salmon Dinner
From previous Picpoul pairings, I knew that I wanted to pour them with seafood. Since it was a busy midweek evening, I went for a simple sheetpan dinner with salmon, potatoes, and broccoli.
Ingredients
potatoes, scrubbed, dried, and sliced into wedges
broccoli cut into bite-sized florets
salmon filets
olive oil
salt and pepper
Also needed: baking sheet lined with parchment paper
Procedure
Preheat oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Place potato wedges in a mixing bowl and drizzle with olive oil. Toss to coat and turn out onto the prepared baking sheet. Roast for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven. Place the broccoli florets in the same mixing bowl and drizzle with olive oil. Toss to coat and turn out onto the prepared baking sheet and nestle the broccoli into the potatoes. Roast for another 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven. Move the veggies to accommodate the salmon filets. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 12 minutes. To serve, move each salmon filet to individual serving plates and portion out the potatoes and broccoli.
Caramelized Chevre Dip
I set out to let the California Picpoul with shine and decided to make a goat cheese spread.
Ingredients
8 ounces soft goat cheese
1 Tablespoon olive oil and more for serving
2 Tablespoons caramelized onions
freshly ground black pepper
salt, if needed (I don't usually add salt)
Also needed: bread slices and garlic-stuffed olives
Procedure
Place the goat cheese in a mixing bowl. Pour in 1 Tablespoon olive oil and add in the caramelized onions. Stir to combine, Spread the cheese over the bottom of a shallow bowl of rimmed plate. Sprinkle with black pepper and salt, if using. Drizzle with more olive oil and serve with bread slices and garlic-stuffed olives.
That's a wrap for my February #Winophiles offering . I have a few more pairings planned with forbidden French grapes. Stay tuned!
I love comparing wines side by side like this! Cheers Cam.